Primer question

3868 Views 38 Replies 13 Participants Last post by NY-BOSSMAN, Mar 30, 2010

350_85_BroughamCut

Discussion Starter · Feb 21, 2010

ok gotta question...Ive sanded my factory paint with 180, then shot some epoxy primer (black) then followed by my Polyester High build primer (the gray) I dry blocked the poly prime. Do I shoot whole car in 2k primer next.....I have yet to get to the roof and trunk in Poly prime...and only have 1 quart of the 2K, how much can I spray with 1 quart of 2K i was thinking the whole pass side then the drivers side fender and door...and after I 2K it, just wet sand and it's ready for sealer right?

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KAKALAK

· #2 · Feb 21, 2010

Originally posted by 350_85_BroughamCut@Feb 21 2010, 12:40 AM~16674268
ok gotta question...Ive sanded my factory paint with 180, then shot some epoxy primer (black) then followed by my Polyester High build primer (the gray) I dry blocked the poly prime. Do I shoot whole car in 2k primer next.....I have yet to get to the roof and trunk in Poly prime...and only have 1 quart of the 2K, how much can I spray with 1 quart of 2K i was thinking the whole pass side then the drivers side fender and door...and after I 2K it, just wet sand and it's ready for sealer right?

Id say your ready to spray the sealer after sanding with 380 :dunno:

Hoss805

· #3 · Feb 21, 2010

a quart should be enough,
what grit did you finish the polyester primer with,
if its 150-180 they go with the 2k and wetsand,

the 2k will fill the scratches,
wetsand with 400 then its ready for sealer,

350_85_BroughamCut

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 21, 2010

I used 180...ok cool, that's exactly what I was gonna do...thanks homie

what do ya'll use to clean before you prime? I bought some stuff by 3M called "Scuff It" its like a paste that you apply to a scotch brite pad and use water to go over the body then rinse off, alot better than using Wax and Grease remover since you dont' have to wipe on and wipe off...so I don't have a garage and I had to bring my car home since it's my daily, and it's suppose to rain, if I have a couple bare metal spots and they surface rust from the rain, can I just use that 3M stuff with a scotchbrite to scuff the rust off and proceed? I know exposed filler is not good to let get wet unless it's over epoxy so I'm ok there

danny chawps

· #5 · Feb 21, 2010

Originally posted by 350_85_BroughamCut@Feb 21 2010, 04:01 PM~16679798
I used 180...ok cool, that's exactly what I was gonna do...thanks homie

what do ya'll use to clean before you prime? I bought some stuff by 3M called "Scuff It" its like a paste that you apply to a scotch brite pad and use water to go over the body then rinse off, alot better than using Wax and Grease remover since you dont' have to wipe on and wipe off...so I don't have a garage and I had to bring my car home since it's my daily, and it's suppose to rain, if I have a couple bare metal spots and they surface rust from the rain, can I just use that 3M stuff with a scotchbrite to scuff the rust off and proceed? I know exposed filler is not good to let get wet unless it's over epoxy so I'm ok there

buy a gallon of degreaser...that stuff works man i use it b 4 sanding a car and b 4 priming and painting .....i wouldnt get any bare metal wet i only do the scotch brite method on newer cars b for painting but not something like what u working with

lowdeville

· #6 · Feb 22, 2010

Originally posted by 350_85_BroughamCut@Feb 20 2010, 10:40 PM~16674268
ok gotta question...Ive sanded my factory paint with 180, then shot some epoxy primer (black) then followed by my Polyester High build primer (the gray) I dry blocked the poly prime. Do I shoot whole car in 2k primer next.....I have yet to get to the roof and trunk in Poly prime...and only have 1 quart of the 2K, how much can I spray with 1 quart of 2K i was thinking the whole pass side then the drivers side fender and door...and after I 2K it, just wet sand and it's ready for sealer right?

I'd sprasy some more high build so you don't have any spots where you burnt through to the epoxy.I've had wrinkling problems sealing the body that looks like that.

pink63impala

· #7 · Feb 22, 2010

Originally posted by 350_85_BroughamCut@Feb 21 2010, 06:01 PM~16679798
I used 180...ok cool, that's exactly what I was gonna do...thanks homie

what do ya'll use to clean before you prime? I bought some stuff by 3M called "Scuff It" its like a paste that you apply to a scotch brite pad and use water to go over the body then rinse off, alot better than using Wax and Grease remover since you dont' have to wipe on and wipe off...so I don't have a garage and I had to bring my car home since it's my daily, and it's suppose to rain, if I have a couple bare metal spots and they surface rust from the rain, can I just use that 3M stuff with a scotchbrite to scuff the rust off and proceed? I know exposed filler is not good to let get wet unless it's over epoxy so I'm ok there

i use the scuff it and scotchbrite on top of a painted car thats getting repainted,after i da. it with some 320.
and you have to wash it off afterwards so youll get teh bare matal wet and filler

joe joe

· #8 · Feb 23, 2010

Originally posted by lowdeville@Feb 21 2010, 06:41 PM~16681113
I'd sprasy some more high build so you don't have any spots where you burnt through to the epoxy.I've had wrinkling problems sealing the body that looks like that.

i agree.....i would reprimer but add a little acetone to ur poly primer to thin it out some. this way it will lay smooth and will be eazier to sand and finish with 400-600 before sealer....good luck homie

ILUVMY82

· #9 · Feb 23, 2010

what would be the sealer? 2k? also trying to learn

joe joe

· #10 · Feb 23, 2010

Originally posted by joe joe@Feb 22 2010, 10:50 PM~16696075
i agree.....i would reprimer but add a little acetone to ur poly primer to thin it out some. this way it will lay smooth and will be eazier to sand and finish with 400-600 before sealer....good luck homie

also use block. always use a block when u r prepping for paint...g/l homie post pix when ur done.........

joe joe

· #11 · Feb 23, 2010

Originally posted by ILUVMY82@Feb 22 2010, 10:55 PM~16696142
what would be the sealer? 2k? also trying to learn

2k is a high build primer used to level out body work by block sanding..sealer is used to seal in ur prep work before u apply ur paint............

ILUVMY82

· #12 · Feb 23, 2010

Originally posted by joe joe@Feb 22 2010, 11:21 PM~16696458
2k is a high build primer used to level out body work by block sanding..sealer is used to seal in ur prep work before u apply ur paint............

thanks you and what sealer is good to use does it matter?

joe joe

· #13 · Feb 23, 2010

Originally posted by ILUVMY82@Feb 23 2010, 12:19 AM~16696949
thanks you and what sealer is good to use does it matter?

its best to stick with the brand of paint ur gonna use..better safe then sorry........

ILUVMY82

· #14 · Feb 23, 2010

Originally posted by joe joe@Feb 23 2010, 12:32 AM~16697053
its best to stick with the brand of paint ur gonna use..better safe then sorry........

350_85_BroughamCut

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 23, 2010

my epoxy and polyester primer are Kustom Shop brand from TCP global...so If I shoot the Polyester primer, and wet sand with 320, is there any point in using the 2K? or should I just skip on to sealer? yeah I only have a 1.8 tip, that's the biggest tip I have on the gun, and that Poly prime is thick, so I had to reduce it with Acetone like 20-30% which cut down the build of it. also I had a couple spots, just along the bodyline where it was flaking off

but after blocking with 80, then finishing with 180 it seemed to stick everywhere else wit no problem....so

1.re-shoot with poly primer

2.wet sand with 320 (block) then 2K

3. used reduced epoxy as a sealer

I've read so many ways to do it, and it can get confusing, I had a game plan before I set out to do my car, but when in doubt, gotta ask questions. on my bumper filler peices I used epoxy, am I ok? do I do the same with these also or just 2K and seal?

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Hoss805

· #16 · Feb 23, 2010

skip to sealer

350_85_BroughamCut

Discussion Starter · #17 · Feb 23, 2010

could I use the 2K instead of the poly primer and just 400 that and go to sealer? I'm kinda iffy bout using that poly primer agian since I had flaking issues....I took that quart back and got a gallon, Its Nason Selective Urethane 2k Primer, I'm gonna be using Nason bc/cc, but the sealers gonna be the Kustom shop brand, yeah I hear ya bout using the same brand but I'm sure it'll work together

Hoss805

· #18 · Feb 24, 2010

Originally posted by 350_85_BroughamCut@Feb 23 2010, 03:42 PM~16702902
could I use the 2K instead of the poly primer and just 400 that and go to sealer? I'm kinda iffy bout using that poly primer agian since I had flaking issues....I took that quart back and got a gallon, Its Nason Selective Urethane 2k Primer, I'm gonna be using Nason bc/cc, but the sealers gonna be the Kustom shop brand, yeah I hear ya bout using the same brand but I'm sure it'll work together

polyprime is more for the rough block, so if you have deep scratches, imperfections, i would use the poly primer,
if the surface has minimal work, just 2k it and wetsand it,
you can spray over the 2k, no need for sealer, but thats up to you

350_85_BroughamCut

Discussion Starter · #19 · Feb 24, 2010

yeah thats where it is now, the rough blocking stage, so 2K it is...and is that right? no need for sealer....

thanks alot for your input homie, good lookin out!

350_85_BroughamCut

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 26, 2010

so I sprayed some primer today, I spot primed my bare metal areas with a coat of epoxy, let flash, then shot some polyester prime....then some bad shit happened....you know how water looks when theres oil in it? well thats how the poly was starting to do.....what could be the cause of this? I know the compressor at work has seen better days, you think junk got past the water separator?

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