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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
AND I JUST USED IT TO FILL SMALL DINGS DO I HAVE TO PRIMER WHOLE TRUCK OR CAN I JUST SHOOT THE SS WHITE RIGHT OVER IT WILL IT BLEED THROUH WE ARE LOOKING FOR A QUALITY FINISH OR SHOULD I GET SOME RUSTOLEUM AUTO PRIMER IN CAN AND JUST SHOOT THE FILLER AREAS THEN CONTINUE TO WET SAND THEN LAY PAINT? AND ALSO HOW MANY COATS OF SS CAN I SHOOT ? DOES IT MATTTER
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
seriously time is wasting
 

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Zip it cunt!
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Do it right, primer it. I don't know about rustoleum though :ugh:


I thought you wanted to open a body shop? You ask some VERY basic questions for somebody wanting to open up a shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i know i said small shop // on car bay its just me im barely startin out got the family investin in me to open it so im gonna have it but learning at the same time i am askin basic questions because the other cars i have done were not the right way at all ll done very shitty so now im plannin on doing everything right the first time hence the basic questions
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
nd ya im just gonna primer it
 

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The Great White Hype
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Originally posted by hot$tuff5964@Mar 4 2010, 12:30 PM~16794569
Do it right, primer it. I don't know about rustoleum though :ugh:
I thought you wanted to open a body shop? You ask some VERY basic questions for somebody wanting to open up a shop.
I was thinking the samething :scrutinize:


dont use rattle can primer anywhere on your car, Unless you can buy it at the paint store and its specifically to be used on automobiles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by KAKALAK@Mar 4 2010, 01:10 PM~16796194
I was thinking the samething  :scrutinize:
dont use rattle can primer anywhere on your car, Unless you can buy it at the paint store and its specifically to be used on automobiles.
gotcha it is automotive primer but ill just use the 2k everything i did b4 was kinda hackish (BUT IT WAS ON MY CARS) i mean i know the basics but i just wanna confirm im only 21 nd teaching myself this whole thing mostly with advise from everyone on here and doing it in the garage i just wanna do shit right :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
this is my first car i am painting correctly following all the steps the reason i asked was so i could just quickly cover up the filler (rage) so i could wash it down real quik. i blew it off with the comp but no alcohol to wipe so i washed again

and about the small shop i just wanna get a head start so when i get it in a month depending on how much clientele i get going here i would be up and good, not runnin around gettin for stuff at last minute

this is whats up as of right now i got the truck washed it, then i blocked the truck with a dura block with 180, worked the dents out as much as possible with a hammer and dolly set, then put a thin layer of rage to the areas to fill low spots, i then got the automotive primer in a can that i already had around for small stuff and used that to cover up the high spots that showed bare metal and filler, just so i could wash it and prep for primer i will sand it off before continuing
tomorrow i am gonna mask off the driveway and lay the primer (2k poly) wet sand that with 320 and lay the single stage am i doing this correctly?
fender is off just put it back on to wash and the hood is open the rock chips will be fill with the quantum putty i got








 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by hot$tuff5964@Mar 4 2010, 04:50 PM~16798007
No Rustoleum bullshit spray cans  :biggrin:
:werd: wrote that same time you did i guess lol
 

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Originally posted by ILUVMY82@Mar 4 2010, 04:57 PM~16798056

looks to me like that right fender needs some bondo towards the front of it cause all those brown spots dont look to good or at least a layer of putty if its not too banged up there. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by A-FORD-ABLE@Mar 4 2010, 10:55 PM~16802019
looks to me like that right fender needs some bondo towards the front of it cause all those brown spots dont look to good or at least a layer of putty if its not too banged up there.  ;)
;)
 

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Mr. Paid
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Dont use single stage. It's harder to spray and doesn't stick for shit. If your painting it white, you can get enough base, clear and reducer to spray that truck for around $140. I've seen people fill chips with putty and I dont like it. I da them with 180 and spray 2k on it. Next time you do a vehicle that has good paint on it, just fix the spots that need it and only primer those spots. Sanding the whole truck with 180 just means you have to primer the whole truck now to fill the 180 scratches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Originally posted by Lord Duez@Mar 5 2010, 01:25 AM~16802997
Dont use single stage. It's harder to spray and doesn't stick for shit. If your painting it white, you can get enough base, clear and reducer to spray that truck for around $140. I've seen people fill chips with putty and I dont like it. I da them with 180 and spray 2k on it. Next time you do a vehicle that has good paint on it, just fix the spots that need it and only primer those spots. Sanding the whole truck with 180 just means you have to primer the whole truck now to fill the 180 scratches.
thank you i was thinking the same thing but i didnt know at least its all gonna get done now im gonna two tone it white and black on the bottom 1/4th of the truck any suggest should i spray the black first?

also another thing about peeling clearif the paint is still kinda good what will it look like if i sand the clear and re shoot new clear? does that come out good have people asking me to do all kinds of cheap shit i just tell them no i gotta redo whole car or at least the panels (trunk, hood) etc
 

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Mr. Paid
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Yeah shoot the black first, because you could probably mask it with paper, instead of shooting the white first and having to use plastic at $40 a box. Wait like an hour after shooting the black before you put tape on it, if it's bc/cc, I dont know about ss. If the clear is failing, anything you put on top of it is gonna fail too. I would sand it off, and you can't do that without hitting the base, so you would have to rebase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
got the prep all and a used 3m full face mask that seems like it will do the job untill i get a better respirator
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
this baby worked like a fucking charm i didnt even realize what i had i got it for free off some tweaker for doing a radio install hahaha :biggrin: :biggrin: made my day after i found out how much it was and its brand new no overspray on it all was just a lil dusty

http://www.shoplet.com/3m-6000-Series-Full...1426800DIN/spdv
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
and another question was it the H.F gun the 14.99 w=one the reason the primer came out really thick and feels like sand paper? or was that too much pressure i didnt have a regulator only from the comp to the hose but not one at the gun i know i need one at the gun but i thought it would be ok for primer>>? ? i put 4 :1 no reducer or acetone was that the reason as well? that high build really lays on thick as fuck
 
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