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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
whats the proper way to tighten the rockers? A couple of mine were "rattlin' so I turned them a little...Is that bad? are some a little loose than others? Can anybody help me with the proper way to do this? THANKS IN ADVANCE!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Crap...I feel like a newbie... :biggrin: its a 283 out of my 64' chevy'

no rollers....its not totally stock......just a bigger crank, intake and carb...I think its a 307 now?

Well it was defintely "knockin" So I snugged up a couple rockers? not much though,One was really loose,

Then the roter inside my HEI distributer was a little loose too...{one of the screws}

I tighten it back up ....put everything back together...and now the motor is really "BOOGY" .....as I step on the gas It feels like theres a bannana in the exhaust, it very slow....and I'm just puzzled...any input is much help full,

Also when the distribtor's roter was loose an knockin around inside the cap....Could that do major damage? I hit up the inside with a little sand paper...and the roter.

Once again THANK YOU !
 

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Triple OG
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its running like shit because you adjusted the rockers wrong. Your not getting full valve lift.

loosen the nuts and do them one by one with each one at top dead center.

that should help you out alot.

don't feel bad homie, I made the same mistake before.
 

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Triple OG
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Originally posted by Madrox64@Sep 16 2005, 03:07 AM~3826814
Thanks ...but How can I tell when the valve is at Top Dead Center?


both valves will be up. so basically the springs will be as big as they can get because they are not pushing the valves down.

You can turn it over with a breaker bar. put it on the nut for the harmonic balancer and turn it over and do them one by one.
 

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The "easy" way (not necessarily proper, but quick n dirty way to get ya by) that I was taught is to have the car running, and tighten each rocker nut slowly until the RPMs drop, then loosen it back up 1/8-1/4 turn so the RPMs come back up.
 

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Triple OG
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found this on the net...maybe it will help..

http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp




You will need a mark on the dampener at 180 degrees from TDC.If yours doesn't have a mark,take a piece of string or straight edge and go from the TDC mark through the crank bolt and make a mark on the other side of dampener.This doesn't have to be perfect.

Number 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on compression stroke.
Adjust intake valve on #2 and #7;exhaust valves #4 and #8.

Rotate crankshaft 180 degrees clockwise and adjust intake valve on #1 and #8;
exhaust valves #3 and #6.

Rotate crankshaft 180 degrees again (TDC) and adjust intake valves #3 and #4;
exhaust valves #5 and #7.

Rotate crankshaft again 180 degrees and adjust intake valves #5 and #6;
exhaust valves #1 and #2.

Use 7/16 studs with polylocks (locking nuts with a setscrew),turn down
adjuster nut slowly while spinning pushrod back and forth with other hand until
all play is removed WITHOUT pushing lifter cup down into body.You should
JUST feel the pushrod get hard to spin.Then turn an additional 1/2-1 full
turn and lock it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Badass94Cad@Sep 16 2005, 08:27 AM~3827657
The "easy" way (not necessarily proper, but quick n dirty way to get ya by) that I was taught is to have the car running, and tighten each rocker nut slowly until the RPMs drop, then loosen it back up 1/8-1/4 turn so the RPMs come back up.

when I was with the guy that..."tuned" my motor we did it that way also....very messy...got oil everywhere! I'm going to try this again...I only tightened 3 rockers.......so hopefully it won't be to bad...Thanks ya'll...I'll give you an update this weekened.
 

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Originally posted by Madrox64@Sep 16 2005, 04:53 PM~3829951
when I was with the guy that..."tuned" my motor we did it that way also....very messy...got oil everywhere! I'm going to try this again...I only tightened 3 rockers.......so hopefully it won't be to bad...Thanks ya'll...I'll give you an update this weekened.


yea, that way is messy, oil gets on the headers and everything. I just got in from doing mine, it took about 1/2 hour maybe 45 min.
 

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Originally posted by concrete@Sep 16 2005, 09:34 PM~3830927
yea, that way is messy, oil gets on the headers and everything. I just got in from doing mine, it took about 1/2 hour maybe 45 min.
if you do it that way, you should get the clips that clip onto the pushrods and keep the oil from squirting out ;)
 

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Originally posted by Notorious76@Sep 16 2005, 08:35 PM~3831187
if you have press in studs. you might have more problems with them coming loose.
I've had that happen to me on an old 327 out of my 64. Start off with #1 on top dead center, and then you can do a couple at a time.

John
 

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Originally posted by Badass94Cad@Sep 16 2005, 07:27 AM~3827657
The "easy" way (not necessarily proper, but quick n dirty way to get ya by) that I was taught is to have the car running, and tighten each rocker nut slowly until the RPMs drop, then loosen it back up 1/8-1/4 turn so the RPMs come back up.

that's exactly how I did mine, and burned my arm on the maniford when I dropped my wrench, LOL

That IS the right way to do it :thumbsup: (less the burn ;) )

BTW - 283 in my 64 Impala also (also have HEI.....)

You shoud check your carb to :)
 

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Originally posted by jenns64chevy@Oct 30 2005, 07:33 PM~4100787

That IS the right way to do it :thumbsup:  (less the burn ;) )


gm, and every cam manufacturer would disagree with you.
 

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Originally posted by Foompla@Oct 30 2005, 03:11 PM~4100988
gm, and every cam manufacturer would disagree with you.
That's OK, it works :) ....They would also charge an arm and a leg to do a simple job like this ;) LOL, I don't need a book or shop to tell me how to repair my car.............unless it's electrical, LOL :rofl:
 

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Originally posted by jenns64chevy@Oct 31 2005, 05:50 AM~4105017
That's OK, it works :)  ....They would also charge an arm and a leg to do a simple job like this ;) LOL, I don't need a book or shop to tell me how to repair my car.............unless it's electrical, LOL :rofl:
is that why it takes you three times to fix it? im not talking about taking it to a shop, if you picked up a repair manual, itd be written out in detail how they THINK it should be done. everyones gotta learn from some place. some things you learn the right way, some things you learn the wrong way. GM has a way that they say you should do it, Crane cams, has their way, and comp cams has their way. The common element that youll find is that NONE of them say to do it while the engine is running. With the engine running IS a way that you can adjust valve lash on hydraulic lifters, but its not the BEST was to do it. If you think that im going to trust the long life of the engine that i spent all this time building up, to my shitty hearing, you must be out of your mind. But then what do i know? Ive got mechanical lifters :)
 

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Originally posted by Foompla@Oct 31 2005, 07:31 AM~4105308
If you think that im going to trust the long life of the engine that i spent all this time building up, to my shitty hearing, you must be out of your mind.  But then what do i know?  Ive got mechanical lifters :)

Naw, instead you should trust your ability to "feel" when the pushrod gets tight using you shitty feeling in your calised(sp?), scarred, non-feeling fingers and tighten another 1/2-3/4 turn :biggrin:

/sarcasm

mechanical are even more fun, since you have to readjust them all the time :cheesy:
 
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