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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does the inside of a box have to be perfectly smooth. im builing my first box and i layed some fiberglass reiforced body filler in it, silicone caulked all the seams, and im spraying rubberized undercoating. i dont know if these things were all good, but i was just trying to make the damn thing is bulletproof. but do i need to sand down the body filler perfect on the inside? i hate sanding :angry: but if i have to i will
 

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all the work you did will not make too big of a difference.... smoothing out the corners is a good trick to get more DB's out of a system because yes it does get rid of turbulence but usually something like this is only done to a competition vehicle. where they have 3 or more woofers usually 15's.

It would have been fine to have just siliconed the corners and used nails then screws to put the box together. with the glue as well. the shortstrand that you used is going to be a pain to sand down as well.

Have Fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by Juiced10@Aug 21 2006, 11:59 AM~6010697
all the work you did will not make too big of a difference....  smoothing out the corners is a good trick to get more DB's out of a system because yes it does get rid of turbulence but usually something like this is only done to a competition vehicle.  where they have 3 or more woofers usually 15's. 

It would have been fine to have just siliconed the corners and used nails then screws to put the box together.  with the glue as well.  the shortstrand that you used is going to be a pain to sand down as well.

Have Fun.
o well, guess i just wasted a lot of time. not a competition vehicle, just a daily :biggrin:. got it all sanded down. im using pvc ports, so what is the best adhesive to bond the pvc to the mdf? my neighbor says hot glue, but that seems kinda iffy.
 

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Originally posted by Juiced10@Aug 21 2006, 01:59 PM~6010697
all the work you did will not make too big of a difference....   smoothing out the corners is a good trick to get more DB's out of a system because yes it does get rid of turbulence but usually something like this is only done to a competition vehicle.  where they have 3 or more woofers usually 15's. 

It would have been fine to have just siliconed the corners and used nails then screws to put the box together.  with the glue as well.  the shortstrand that you used is going to be a pain to sand down as well.

Have Fun.

1) nails are just as good as screws... they do the same job which is hold the panels together tight while the glue drys

2) if you have turbulance, you have port noise, and if you have port noise, your sound quality will suffer whether it's a comp setup, daily, (1) 10", (5) 15's, etc.

purplemonte, i dont see why you went that far in your speaker box if its an all-wood enclosure, but its done now, try and sand it down some, use 40 or 60 grit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by Sporty@Aug 21 2006, 06:38 PM~6013481
1) nails are just as good as screws... they do the same job which is hold the panels together tight while the glue drys

2) if you have turbulance, you have port noise, and if you have port noise, your sound quality will suffer whether it's a comp setup, daily, (1) 10", (5) 15's, etc.

purplemonte, i dont see why you went that far in your speaker box if its an all-wood enclosure, but its done now, try and sand it down some, use 40 or 60 grit...


so did i just fuck it up more by doing all that? i just know i had a shitty prefab box and two pos alpine type e 12's blew that bitch apart, so i was trying to make sure this one would last because its getting 3 12s
 

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okay if it was a cheap prefab then it prolly wasnt built right... if you use 3/4" MDF, carpenters glue, nails/screws and have solid wood to wood contact, you should be okay....

if you have heavy woofers, then do a double layer front baffle.... you can use threaded rods for stabilizing enclosures....

i picked up a pretty good tip from snoopdan on adding to your all-wood enclosures, i just mix some resin and hardner together and gloss the inside of the enclosure (walls, corners, and seams)...


search for a bonding agent for wood & plastic for that last question...

i wanna say guerilla glue but im not sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
got some guerilla glue sittin around somewhere so ill try it tomorrow. well, im kinda disappointed now, but i should be able to load it up tomorrow and actually see how it sounds. i know jack shit about systems so itll probably sound good to me, and i guess thats what really counts. . . :uh:. first box anyways so ill just take it as a learning experience. thanks a lot guys for all the help. i really appreciate it
 

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actually if you use screws the screws will hold stronger than nails my friend. countersink the holes first then use screws as well as nails with bracing along the inside.


But yeah the ports that you are using and all this smoothing stuff out that you are doing is a waste of time. personnally when i build a box i either call the manufacturer or calculate the size of port that you will need depending on the size of the box... it will sound better that way. Those plastic ports work but i prefer to build the box and make my own port then router it out when im done.

I work with kicker product all the time and we usually just call em tell em the size of the box and they give us a port size that will get the most sound out of the box.

To be honest i prefer the sound of sealed boxes better. I had 3 kicker comp vr 12's in a sealed box that was only 3 cubic feet and i was hittin around 144 DB's and it sounded great as well. only had 600 watts hooked up to them.
 

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Originally posted by Juiced10@Aug 22 2006, 12:38 PM~6017508
actually if you use screws the screws will hold stronger than nails my friend.  countersink the holes first then use screws as well as nails with bracing along the inside. 
either one is fine. neither of them are there for strength anyway. The holding power is in the glue
 
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