subs and ohms
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ok ill try to explain its kinda hard to someone who doesnt really know but here it goes.
all amps runn power at differnt ohm levels
most digital 1 channel amps put out there maximum power at 1 ohm or 2 ohms so in order to get that you have to hook up subs in the right configuration to get 1 or 2 ohms jl audio sells subs in dual 4 and dual 6 and i think maybe even dual 2 possibly, figure if you get 3 dual 6 ohm subs and a jl 1000.1 you want to hook it up to one ohm so you can run the full 1000rms right??? well thats why youd get 3 dual 6s or two dual 4s, 3 dual sixes in a parrallel/parrallel config would give u the one or 2 dual 4s in a parrallel parrallel would give you one ohm, it just matters on what your amp runs the power u need at what ohm to decide on what sub config u want, most 2 channels are only 2 ohm stable so you want to get 2 dual 4 ohm subs so you can run each channel at 2ohms (each sub hooked up in parrallel)
do you understand at all? or did i just confuze you more?
all amps runn power at differnt ohm levels
most digital 1 channel amps put out there maximum power at 1 ohm or 2 ohms so in order to get that you have to hook up subs in the right configuration to get 1 or 2 ohms jl audio sells subs in dual 4 and dual 6 and i think maybe even dual 2 possibly, figure if you get 3 dual 6 ohm subs and a jl 1000.1 you want to hook it up to one ohm so you can run the full 1000rms right??? well thats why youd get 3 dual 6s or two dual 4s, 3 dual sixes in a parrallel/parrallel config would give u the one or 2 dual 4s in a parrallel parrallel would give you one ohm, it just matters on what your amp runs the power u need at what ohm to decide on what sub config u want, most 2 channels are only 2 ohm stable so you want to get 2 dual 4 ohm subs so you can run each channel at 2ohms (each sub hooked up in parrallel)
do you understand at all? or did i just confuze you more?
Home speakers are generally 8 ohms, car speakers are generally 4 ohms. if you hook an 8 ohm to a car amplifier rated for 4 ohms, you'll only get half the rated power out of it. The amp will run cooler, but you only get half the power out of the amp. you can bridge 2 4 ohm speakers to 2 ohms and get twice the power out of the amp, but it will run VERY hot and you might run into cooling problems, clipping, even damage your amp if it runs hot for too long. You have to make sure your amp is stable at 2 ohms and for how LONG it's stable. I hope I helped a little. 
We all were new at car audio once, we lived, we learned. Just keep askin the right questions!
We all were new at car audio once, we lived, we learned. Just keep askin the right questions!hey i appreciate it. i think i kinda get it now. so wouldnt it just be best to always buy dual 2 ohm speakers? because then you would always get the max output with out bridging anything. i dont know. im just not sure what ohm to buy my speakers in. the ones i want (jlw3v2 12s) come in 2, 4, and 6 ohm. which one should i get?
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Best, perhaps. But it also cost alot more money to get a amp that will efficiently run a 1 ohm load or lower. This means high quality amp!
if i bought this amp and hooked it up like: 1050 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms, which ohm would be best for 3 jl 12w3v2s hooked up to this one amp?
http://www.cbrstereo.com/Merchant2/merchan...egory_Code=2RFA
http://www.cbrstereo.com/Merchant2/merchan...egory_Code=2RFA
G
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·Now, I would go with dual 4 ohm voicecoil subs, wire the voice coils in parallel. this will give you a two ohm stable load. this will still get good power from your amp without running it too hot!
In my system I use 2x fusion 12" dual 4 ohm voice coils, each sub is running off of a fusion amp running 750 watts RMS per sub.
In my system I use 2x fusion 12" dual 4 ohm voice coils, each sub is running off of a fusion amp running 750 watts RMS per sub.
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