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Triple OG
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not too familiar with suspensions and such..but

I noticed that when I push down on either front corner of the car the car will rock back and forth. If I push down in the middle of the hood (like you would to see if the shocks are bad) It don't bounce much at all.


When I'm on the highway I can feel it rocking. When I switch lanes or go around curves it feels like the wind is blowing on the car and making it tilt..

I'm pretty sure it wasn't doing this before and its a new thing..

Anyone recognize what is going on?
 

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Triple OG
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Discussion Starter #3
why do you think it won't bounce when I push it from the middle but it will when I push it from the sides?
 

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Sounds like the shocks are bad. Are they the original ones still? Here's a way to change them out quick: If the top nut is rusted on, I found that it's easiest to just break it off with the stud on the top of the shock by using a socket and a 20" extension. Just push and pull on the extension (which will be bending the top stud), until it snaps off, then remove the two bolts on the bottom and swap in your new shock.
 

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Triple OG
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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by cashmoneyspeed@Nov 5 2007, 12:34 PM~9158490
Sounds like the shocks are bad.  Are they the original ones still?  Here's a way to change them out quick:  If the top nut is rusted on, I found that it's easiest to just break it off with the stud on the top of the shock by using a socket and a 20" extension.  Just push and pull on the extension (which will be bending the top stud), until it snaps off, then remove the two bolts on the bottom and swap in your new shock.

not sure if they are the original ones.... I'll give it a try..they aren't very expensive..


anyone know how to fix loose steering in the same car? There is not really slack in the wheel, it is just really easy to turn.
 

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Originally posted by concrete@Nov 5 2007, 02:50 PM~9159086
not sure if they are the original ones.... I'll give it a try..they aren't very expensive..
anyone know how to fix loose steering in the same car? There is not really slack in the wheel, it is just really easy to turn.
Yeah, it's light a "floaty" feeling right? Do you still have all the old police suspension on the car? Mine was the same way when i got it. I did a front end rebuild consisting of all MOOG products: inner and outter tie rods & sleeves, center link, idler arm. I replaced the springs with Intrax drop springs and Belltech Nitro drop shocks. And i also replaced all the body bushings with new poly ones. The car rides like it's on rails now whether i have it on the stock 15" 9C1 wheels or 255/35 20's. Only reason i didn't do the balljoints and contol arm bushings is because they were done right before i bought the car.
 

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Originally posted by doctahouse@Nov 5 2007, 04:37 PM~9159920
How much of a difference did you notice by switching to the poly body mounts?

Was there any difficulty taking out and replacing the bushings?
Well i did the front end reuild on the suspension along with stiffer springs/shocks, 20" wheels, and the stealth brake bolt (to correct the combi valve to a 70/30 ratio) all at one time so i can't really say how much of a difference the new bushings made.

I do know that the old ones were brittle and barely touching in most places. There wasn't anything difficult about replacing them besides i had 2 of the bolts that broke on me while removing the old ones. Also, if you're replacing the body to frame bushings, get new bolts to re-install them with.
 

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Triple OG
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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by cashmoneyspeed@Nov 5 2007, 03:18 PM~9159761
Yeah, it's light a "floaty" feeling right?  Do you still have all the old police suspension on the car?  Mine was the same way when i got it.  I did a front end rebuild consisting of all MOOG products:  inner and outter tie rods & sleeves, center link, idler arm.  I replaced the springs with Intrax drop springs and Belltech Nitro drop shocks. And i also replaced all the body bushings with new poly ones.  The car rides like it's on rails now whether i have it on the stock 15" 9C1 wheels or 255/35 20's.  Only reason i didn't do the balljoints and contol arm bushings is because they were done right before i bought the car.

yes, a "floaty" feeling. I'm not sure what suspension is on it. probally the og police one. everything else is..

I don't want to do a complete rebuild if I don't need to because I'm going to sell it in the spring..

thanks for the tip though
 

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Originally posted by cashmoneyspeed@Nov 5 2007, 07:09 PM~9160146
Well i did the front end reuild on the suspension along with stiffer springs/shocks, 20" wheels, and the stealth brake bolt (to correct the combi valve to a 70/30 ratio) all at one time so i can't really say how much of a difference the new bushings made.

I do know that the old ones were brittle and barely touching in most places.  There wasn't anything difficult about replacing them besides i had 2 of the bolts that broke on me while removing the old ones.  Also, if you're replacing the body to frame bushings, get new bolts to re-install them with.
whats it have, a bigger hole in it?
 

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Originally posted by Foompla@Nov 7 2007, 05:06 AM~9173884
whats it have, a bigger hole in it?
No actually it's just a solid plug that replaces the plug/spring/pintle in the front of the proportioning valve. What GM did was use the same valve on the front disc/rear drum cars and the disc/disc cars. So if you have a caprice/impala with 4 wheel disc, the bolt that's in there allows for 90/10 brake distribution. The stealth bolt changes that to 70/30 and now under hard braking the car won't nose dive. The rear discs/pads will also actually be taking a part in stopping the car and should eliminate the problem of the slides getting frozen onto the rear caliper brackets due to minimal movement.

Probably the "best bang for the buck" mod i did on my caprice.

stealth brake bolt
 

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SPELL CHECK
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All this info is good, but my suggestion was also going to be to check the sway bar links. There's a good chance that they're worn, and would cause a little extra side-to-side wobble. They're cheap and easy to replace. :cool:
 

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Originally posted by concrete@Nov 7 2007, 01:26 PM~9176435
Does it stop the front end from diving when you brake?
Yeah that is exactly what that would correct! :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by doctahouse@Nov 7 2007, 11:35 PM~9180856
I have read that this plug isn't anything special and that I could go and get a plug that matches the thread pitch and it will work? Is that true or am I stuck paying $30 bucks?
Not sure on that one, but $30 is a pretty cheap investment if you think about what your getting out of it! :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by 79 cutty@Nov 8 2007, 07:11 AM~9181742
Not sure on that one, but $30 is a pretty cheap investment if you think about what your getting out of it!  :biggrin:

Very true, but reading the Impalass fourm one guy was choked he spent so much reliezing that he got one with spending a fortune on the part plus the part shipping etc.. Also, I think is was more $ when it first came out.
 

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Originally posted by Badass94Cad@Nov 7 2007, 02:52 PM~9175797
All this info is good, but my suggestion was also going to be to check the sway bar links.  There's a good chance that they're worn, and would cause a little extra side-to-side wobble.  They're cheap and easy to replace. :cool:
That's a great idea.
 

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When I first picked up the wifes 95' Impala, one of the end links was cut, so only one was attached on the passenger side. It was really scary driving it, and how much of an impact the sway bar has. Any dip or dive in the road and it would really pull you in.

For the 12bucks a side, replace them anyways. Also check the frame mounts for the sway bar. If they are cracked up and really distorted, get the poly ones.
 
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