LayItLow.com Lowrider Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I painted the body and it came out like crap. It was all bubbley and had a few runs. I read somewhere that your suppose to start 12 inches away with a tacky coat first, then move to about 6 inches with the second coat, and the final coat is suppose to be like 3 inches away when you spray. So that's what I did. Does that sound right to you guys? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,253 Posts
1ofaknd got this one.

:thumbsup:



Last edited by cleverlos at Jan 7 2004, 04:00 PM
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,387 Posts
everybody has there own method for painting. 90% of a good paintjob is in the prep work. But here is how i do the actual painting...

First i sand the primer with 1200-1500 Grit paper. Then brush it with toothpaste. Then wash it and let it dry.

1st coat-is a mist coat, just mist some paint, don't worry about covering everything, just spray some.

2nd coat-after 20 min, i lay the second mist coat, this time trying to cover all the primer.

3rd coat- after another 20 min. I lay down the third mist coat, making sure there are no primer spots showing. If you got dust or anything, wait an hour, wetsand with 3200, then spray the 3rd coat.

I let it dry for 2-3 hr's after these coats. If the paint is not completely dry before spraying a wetcoat, solvents in the paint may dissolve the paint underneath and cause many problems, like poor coverage on the high spots, paint running, and uneven coverage.

For the wetcoats you need to get about 1 inch closer, but move your can a little faster. Add paint to the surface with steady motion until the paint starts to gloss up, or the better way to explain it would be when the paint starts to look WET. This is when you have to stop, or the paint will run After spraying the first wetcoat, cover the body with something to avoid dust in your paint. You can remove the cover in 10-15 minutes to allow the paint to gas out. Now the paint needs to cure for much longer period than 2-3 hours, maybe 24 hrs depending on the type of paint you use.

After paint has cured, you will probably see some texture to it - even if your undercoats were glass smooth. That's normal because paint gets textured while it dries. This is especially true for lacquers. Second wet coat will cover this.

About the only thing you need to do before spraying the second wetcoat, is make sure you do not have dust and other things in your paint. Wet sand them with 3600 sandpaper, and smooth out the paint with even higher grit (or toothpaste!).

now for the second wetcoat, repeat the process, and this time leave the paint to cure for at least 4-5 days

And that's it, it's ready for polishing and waxing. I don't do this on all my cars, I usually just rush through it, and end up with little shit all in the paint. :biggrin:



Last edited by 1ofaknd at Jan 7 2004, 03:00 PM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,670 Posts
Originally posted by LowerRanger@Jan 7 2004, 12:40 PM
I painted the body and it came out like crap. It was all bubbley and had a few runs. I read somewhere that your suppose to start 12 inches away with a tacky coat first, then move to about 6 inches with the second coat, and the final coat is suppose to be like 3 inches away when you spray. So that's what I did. Does that sound right to you guys? Thanks
No it doesn't. 3 inches is way too close if you're using a can. You have to mist it, not layer it. 7-10 inches is probably better. Take your time, let the paint flash over. Touch a spot that's not visible when put together and make sure it's dry or just a little tacky.

1ofakind's got everything else covered I think.

K. Diaz
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,387 Posts
yea, you have to build the paint up, if you just lay on 1 really thick coat you'll get runs, crappy coverage, not to mention it'll take about 2 weeks to cure out. I think it even says on most cans not to put on 1 thick coat, rather multiple thin coats
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,670 Posts
I'm not sure if anyone will disagree, but if you're using Testor's cans, throw them out, there's not worth a shit, use Duplicolor or Krylon or some other automotive laquer, they dry and cure faster. Just make sure you use a good primer. Tamiya acrylic in a can is good tho, but expensive.

K. Diaz
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,387 Posts
yea, i hate testors cans, it's almost like they are thinned down so much, and you barely apply any and it wants to run. I use tamiya cans. I just bought a whole box of like 50 cans for like 80 bucks, so i think i should be good for awhile :biggrin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
Originally posted by 1ofaknd@Jan 7 2004, 02:42 PM
yea, i hate testors cans, it's almost like they are thinned down so much, and you barely apply any and it wants to run. I use tamiya cans. I just bought a whole box of like 50 cans for like 80 bucks, so i think i should be good for awhile :biggrin:
were did u get it? i could use a shit load of spray cans
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,387 Posts
Originally posted by The Modeling Pimp+Jan 7 2004, 04:32 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (The Modeling Pimp @ Jan 7 2004, 04:32 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--1ofaknd@Jan 7 2004, 02:42 PM
yea, i hate testors cans, it's almost like they are thinned down so much, and you barely apply any and it wants to run. I use tamiya cans. I just bought a whole box of like 50 cans for like 80 bucks, so i think i should be good for awhile :biggrin:
were did u get it? i could use a shit load of spray cans[/b][/quote]
I got it from a guy that runs a hobby shop down here, it's just box full of assorted colors and shit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, I got testors black pearl. I think the color looks badass tho.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top