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Discussion Starter #1
ive been building the system in my car for a good little bit now.
its been quite hard because of extremely limited trunk space in my current configuration - that and that my doors are verry thin - so I cant realley put any speakers in the doors - and still expect the windows to roll down fully lol.

but ive always been a car stereo fanatic - so here is what ive got so far....

a single powerbass 4by10 up under the dash where a stocker was
and ive made a little box that goes over my front tranny hump between the lower dash and the seats - wich houses two 6.5" speakers - and all 3 of those are powered by a old school jbl 4 channel amp ( only running 3 channels on it right now )

and in the rear - ive got a pair of kicker 6by9s in the factory location in the rear deck - and I cut out a hole in the center of the rear deck to fit a single REx8 sub woofer ( that actually plays mid bass hz tones also :biggrin: ) but due to its infinate baffle configuration ( no box on it yet ) its power handling is minimal before the cone will reach full excursion and you can hear mechanical noise from the sub ( bottoming out in the pole ) so ...... I went and got another two REx8 subs to mount in a custom fit box that I made today wich goes between my front and rear seats - and kinda intrudes to where the arm rest would have been ( I removed arm rest - hate those things ) and the box for them will be sealed configuration - and I might try and use some polly fill in there to dampen it if it needs - but we will see how it goes.

my amp will only give off about 200watts to the three 8" subs wired @ 2.67 ohms
so im looking for a better amp to power all 3 with... maby around 600w rms
but thats a little bit down the road.
also I gota make a box for the 8 in the rear deck so that it will have the same air space as the other 2 subs so all 3 will sound and play the same.

when my system is fully done it should be realley bangin. right now the mids and highs are awesome - but I was lacking earth shaking bass - hence the install of two more 8" subs.

pix will come tomorrow when I finish the install of the 8s and clean off my dirty ass car ... lol

so post up what chall got for stereo in the cars
im intrested to see what every one else is running / from mild to wild
 

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im pounding with my bros stereo its a alpine dont know the model number but it get the job done he said i could borrow it and its been a week now i need to find me a good stereo but just cant find one that i like :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
agreed.
all the good head units that I wouldnt mind having - look terible installed in the dash of a older car.

when I look at head units I always look at the pre out voltage.
most will come with 2 to 4 volt pre outs ( the rca conects to the amps )
good units will have from 6 to 9 volts and be ajustable in the head unit features. the more voltage you have going out - the less you turn up the gain on your amps - wich usualy results in cleaner sound from the amps. sony head units are notorious for weak rca outputs
 

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Originally posted by brian84corvette@Jan 24 2010, 11:52 PM~16401318
agreed.
all the good head units that I wouldnt mind having - look terible installed in the dash of a older car. 

when I look at head units I always look at the pre out voltage.
most will come with 2 to 4 volt pre outs ( the rca conects to the amps )
good units will have from 6 to 9 volts and be ajustable in the head unit features.      the more voltage you have going out - the less you turn up the gain on your amps - wich usualy results in cleaner sound from the amps.      sony head units are notorious for weak rca outputs
not true
:biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by JOE(CAPRICE)68@Jan 25 2010, 03:21 AM~16402207
not true
:biggrin:
actually it is true the higher voltage from the head unit makes a cleaner signal wich feeds the amp better, back in the day we used to use little box that hooked up between deck and amps to adjust voltage amazing the difference in sound and amp effiencey, if you were disagreeing with the highlighted (good units will have from 6 to 9) then i do agree with you only very few decks that i have seen (mostly for competition) ever went that high :biggrin:
 

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tahoe has pioneer deck ipod hookup 4 6.5, 8 tweets front, back seat doors pair of 6.5 coaxs, and pair of tens in bandpass all fosgate, with jl 6 channel amp and bass amp with all jl 0 awg wiring 2 awg junction block and two 1/2 farad caps. this is for my wife and she listens to mostly old school so its not too bass heavy
 

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Originally posted by chongo1@Jan 25 2010, 11:35 AM~16404489
actually it is true the higher voltage from the head unit makes a cleaner signal wich feeds the amp better, back in the day we used to use little box that hooked up between deck and amps to adjust voltage amazing the difference in sound and amp effiencey, if you were disagreeing with the highlighted (good units will have from 6 to 9) then i do agree with you only very few decks that i have seen (mostly for competition) ever went that high :biggrin:
YES ;)
 

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Jvc head unit
1 addictive audio 10.4 for my high end
1 addictive audio 200.1 running 4 kicker l7 8s
2 addictive audio 6x9s
2 addictive audio 6.5s
1 Phoenix gold tld line driver
1 audio control epicenter
1/0 kicker/monster cable to the truck
4 gauge to both amps
140 amp mechman alt.
All monster cable wires
Vital Power 1000 battery up front
Big Three wiring under the hood. NO VOLTAGE DROPS EVER!!!
in my 77 Monte Carlo.
 

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2GUNZ
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28,221 Posts
ALPINE CDA-7998
ALPINE PXA-510 DSP PROCESSOR
IMAGE DYNAMICS CD-1E HORNS
IMAGE DYNAMICS X-30 TWEETER WITH CROSSOVER
8" KICKER CVR'S
ADS 325IS COMPONENT SETUP
6 1/2 KICKER COMPONENT SETUP
6-10" KICKER CVR SUBWOOFERS.
ORION HCCA 250
2-ORION XTR 2150
2 AUDIO CONTROL EQT'S
ADS CSIX CROSSOVER
 

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PosterPosterPosterPoster
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KENWOOD DECK,
FI SUBS.
STOCK 6X9'S

CANT HEAR VOICE FOR SHIT BUT IT POUNDS :cheesy:
 

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Here is a link for the last install I did for my friends F150 Lightning. Lets say it put out some sound and pound.

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=501991#

Is there a reason why you don't try to get all 3 subs side by side? I would think the performance of the system improvement would be worth the extra work. As for the thin doors you should be able to easily do a simple door pod. If memory serves me those door panels are flat and would make a perfect base to build from.
 

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i have a jvc deck
alpine processor
alpine 6 1/2's lanzar dc tweeters
in the front doors
cerwin vega 2 way's in the rear doors
jvc 4 channel for the highs
opti 2200
opti pro plus dual four tens
and 2 guage wiring :thumbsup:
 

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I Dig Chix Wit Glasses!!!
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14,255 Posts
Pioneer H.U. that has a USB iPod connection
Hifonics ZXi 6.5C components on a 6x9 adapter plate for the rear
Cadence TXA 1502 Series 2 channel amp
Dual RE8" subwoofers
Dual vented 8" sub box carpeted


- still on the way is another pair of the Hifonics ZXi 6.5C comps for the front (still need to finish the door panels though) and a Cadence TXA-3004 Series 4 channel amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
im a little torn about making door pods.
I kinda enjoy my leg room up there
and it might seem out of place on cars older than the 80s
 

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2GUNZ
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Originally posted by brian84corvette@Jan 26 2010, 03:43 AM~16413705
im a little torn about making door pods.
I kinda enjoy my leg room up there
and it might seem out of place on cars older than the 80s
A NICE 5 1/4 COMPONENT SET IN A NICE DOOR POD IS NICE. THAT DUMB ASS SHIT OF PUTTING 10 MIDS AND 14 TWEETERS IN 1 DOOR IS IGNORANT.
 

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Originally posted by BIG DIRTY@Jan 26 2010, 03:34 AM~16413973
A NICE 5 1/4 COMPONENT SET IN A NICE DOOR POD IS NICE.  THAT DUMB ASS SHIT OF PUTTING 10 MIDS AND 14 TWEETERS IN 1 DOOR IS IGNORANT.
BUT IT LOOKS COOL :uh:
 

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Originally posted by brian84corvette@Jan 26 2010, 03:43 AM~16413705
im a little torn about making door pods.
I kinda enjoy my leg room up there
and it might seem out of place on cars older than the 80s
Just don't make it all swoopy looking. Just play off of the existing shapes for your design. I don't think the pod would have to be very deep. Pic a component set that has a shallow depth and recess them into the original door as far as possible. If you do it that way the pod should only stick out 1"-2.5".
 
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