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SELL 0UT
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2 tons all the way around and if yur not running alot of batterys then 2 ton in the front, and stock front coils in the rear with shocks.. and it will ride like a dream...
 

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put car back to stock
 

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Run stock front springs in rear with coil over n bridge n a set of shocks.

Or accumulators
 

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I see a lot of people saying to put stock front springs in the back. I've tried this and used 3 1/2 turns of stock springs, they collapsed within about 1,000 miles of driving to the point where they were causing my top cups and reverse deep cups to contact each other on 3 wheels and over big bumps. Should be fine on a mini but on a g-body with 3 batteries in the trunk at the time, it didn't work out for me.
 

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I have a bridge that is up inside the rear of my.frame and I run almost a full stack of front springs in the rear so that's why they don't collapse for me
 

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Softer coils is always the answer to a softer ride. However it is very difficult to get a soft, low profile 'mini' coil. The wire guage would have to be so thin, its impractical. Even 1/2 ton mini coils are going to be very stiff when cut down to lowrider status. If you could convert to the 5"/5.5" coil size, you have waaay more options. Also, you almost always need shock absorbers in the rear. The good thing about accumulators is they can act as both an air spring and a shock absorber. Add a needle valve and consider the fact that the pressure is easily adjusted (if you have access to nitrogen) and you can have just about any kind of suspension you want with accumes.



I see a lot of people saying to put stock front springs in the back. I've tried this and used 3 1/2 turns of stock springs, they collapsed within about 1,000 miles of driving to the point where they were causing my top cups and reverse deep cups to contact each other on 3 wheels and over big bumps. Should be fine on a mini but on a g-body with 3 batteries in the trunk at the time, it didn't work out for me.

I'm sorry that didnt work out for you, soft coil is something I personally have always pushed, and have always used. And I've always used junkyard/stock coils,because they came broke in already and cheap :biggrin: I guess there's a fine line, especially when the stock coils lose more load rating after being rough cut and having to re-settle. The stiffness never changes, but they will continue to sag. I would do away with your top cups and see how you like it. There's a lot of space to gain if you're using deep cups like these



We did a booty-hopping 6-batt cutlass on 4turn stock fronts in the rear, and it was tad stiff for me, but never bottomed out or caused any problems for over a decade.

Now, in my 8-batt wrapped blazer,I run even SOFTER springs,but with a progressive rate. A top cup would never fit, but I have my 1/2" thick cylinder guides mounted to the bottom of the spring pocket that help keep things seated.



When those purple springs were 2" taller, it felt like a stock glasshouse with a bag of sand in the trunk floating down the road :cool:
 

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I forgot to mention that the stock front springs were a bit too wide for the cups also. Had a buddy that got a coil stuck around his cup and i believe it was still that way when he got rid of the car. I've long since got rid of the stock coils in the back and am running 3 1/2 turns of 2 ton coil with accumies and 2 3/4 ton pre cuts up front. Couldn't ask for a smoother ride and still has a little bounce to it from the front. I'll be switching back to 1 ton pre cuts when i put my cce super deep cups on. No bridge in the car yet so i'll just leave my beveled cce top cups in for now.
 

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Softer coils is always the answer to a softer ride. However it is very difficult to get a soft, low profile 'mini' coil. The wire guage would have to be so thin, its impractical. Even 1/2 ton mini coils are going to be very stiff when cut down to lowrider status. If you could convert to the 5"/5.5" coil size, you have waaay more options. Also, you almost always need shock absorbers in the rear. The good thing about accumulators is they can act as both an air spring and a shock absorber. Add a needle valve and consider the fact that the pressure is easily adjusted (if you have access to nitrogen) and you can have just about any kind of suspension you want with accumes.






I'm sorry that didnt work out for you, soft coil is something I personally have always pushed, and have always used. And I've always used junkyard/stock coils,because they came broke in already and cheap :biggrin: I guess there's a fine line, especially when the stock coils lose more load rating after being rough cut and having to re-settle. The stiffness never changes, but they will continue to sag. I would do away with your top cups and see how you like it. There's a lot of space to gain if you're using deep cups like these



We did a booty-hopping 6-batt cutlass on 4turn stock fronts in the rear, and it was tad stiff for me, but never bottomed out or caused any problems for over a decade.

Now, in my 8-batt wrapped blazer,I run even SOFTER springs,but with a progressive rate. A top cup would never fit, but I have my 1/2" thick cylinder guides mounted to the bottom of the spring pocket that help keep things seated.



When those purple springs were 2" taller, it felt like a stock glasshouse with a bag of sand in the trunk floating down the road :cool:
I THINK JUNK YARD COILS ARE GOOD TOO EITHER OFF A FORD OR A CHEVY TRUCK I GOT MINE OFF A 2003 FORD F-150 TRUCK I ONLY GOT ONE COIL BUT ITS A FULL STACK AND IMA CUT IT DOWN TO A FOUR TURN WITH A DEEP CUP WORKING THE REAR WITH COIL UNDER AND I KNO I WILL GET A SMOOTH RIDE AND IN THE FRONT I GOT 2/1 TON COIL CUT DOWN INTO A 3TURN SO IT CAN LAY I WILL POST PICS OF THE COIL I PICKED UP AT THE JUNK YARD
 

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Softer coils is always the answer to a softer ride. However it is very difficult to get a soft, low profile 'mini' coil. The wire guage would have to be so thin, its impractical. Even 1/2 ton mini coils are going to be very stiff when cut down to lowrider status. If you could convert to the 5"/5.5" coil size, you have waaay more options. Also, you almost always need shock absorbers in the rear. The good thing about accumulators is they can act as both an air spring and a shock absorber. Add a needle valve and consider the fact that the pressure is easily adjusted (if you have access to nitrogen) and you can have just about any kind of suspension you want with accumes.






I'm sorry that didnt work out for you, soft coil is something I personally have always pushed, and have always used. And I've always used junkyard/stock coils,because they came broke in already and cheap :biggrin: I guess there's a fine line, especially when the stock coils lose more load rating after being rough cut and having to re-settle. The stiffness never changes, but they will continue to sag. I would do away with your top cups and see how you like it. There's a lot of space to gain if you're using deep cups like these



We did a booty-hopping 6-batt cutlass on 4turn stock fronts in the rear, and it was tad stiff for me, but never bottomed out or caused any problems for over a decade.

Now, in my 8-batt wrapped blazer,I run even SOFTER springs,but with a progressive rate. A top cup would never fit, but I have my 1/2" thick cylinder guides mounted to the bottom of the spring pocket that help keep things seated.



When those purple springs were 2" taller, it felt like a stock glasshouse with a bag of sand in the trunk floating down the road :cool:
THESE ARE THE COILS I GOT AT A JUNK YARD OFF A FORD F-150 JUST NEED TO CUT THEM DOWN THESE WILL GIVE U A SMOOTH RIDE
 

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do you have regular springs or the skinny euro ones? the reg cce yellow spring are 3 1/4 ton which is too much for a mini truck especally if they are cut. i would add shocks to the rear and find a better spring combo. shocks will allow you to run a softer spring...or you could get accumulators.
how is this?
 
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