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Discussion Starter #1
magenta (silver base) after the magenta cures is 2 days ok or more? ,how can i tell if i should clear it i think the silver made the magenta a bit dull ,it looks good but i am contemplating clearing thanks AGAIN .................ok update just took it outside it is as bright as a mofo it looks good i was looking at it in my damn house ,might not need clear afterall



Last edited by lo lo kid at Sep 26 2003, 06:13 PM
 

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i usually do all my coats around 15-20 minutes apart from each other while the last coat is still "tacky" that way the coats stick to each other without any sanding or anything.

this one was completed in around an hour from start to finish.
3 stage laquer job, this car NEVER seen a piece of sandpaper or scuff pad what so ever

 

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Discussion Starter #3
yer ive done 3 -4 coats exactly like u mad 15-20 mins apart ,its actually bright and glossy ive still got to do the top of car and bonnet but ill have to wait till underside drys,ive completed the chassis ,how can i remove dust after painting thats stuck on the car
 

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Originally posted by lo lo kid@Sep 26 2003, 05:26 PM
yer ive done 3 -4 coats exactly like u mad 15-20 mins apart ,its actually bright and glossy ive still got to do the top of car and bonnet but ill have to wait till underside drys,ive completed the chassis ,how can i remove dust after painting thats stuck on the car
get ya some 3600(cloth) but if you already put on another coat,(or clear) then there is nothing you can do about it
 

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yeah, they're good people man.

what i normally do once my paint has dried for a couple of days and i'm gonna put it aside for a lil bit i wrap it back up in the baggie it came in or put it in a ziplock and put it back in its box.

but...... if you do happen to get dust on it before you clear it get a "Tack Cloth" you get them wherever they sell body stuff such as Bondo ect. auto parts stores and dept stores carry them. and that is what they are for..... wipping dust before painting.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks mad the latest update is its all painted bar the bonnet it actually came up good minimal dust if none at all its so damn bright in the sun i just stuck it out there quickly,i wanna get away without clearing it i hope to anyways, i bought testors clear what ya think bout it mad thanks if it all comes up good ill post pics ps how do u do your window surrounds do u mask up the area around it or just have a real steady hand he he..................
 

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Originally posted by lo lo kid@Sep 27 2003, 01:54 AM
how do u do your window surrounds do u mask up the area around it or just have a real steady hand he he..................
real steady hand ;)

i think i'm gonna try that metal foil method here real soon though :dunno: we'll see. lol
 

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Originally posted by The Mad Modeler+Sep 27 2003, 10:54 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (The Mad Modeler @ Sep 27 2003, 10:54 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--jevries@Sep 27 2003, 01:30 AM
Hey Mad, what kind of clear do you use man? that looks shiny as a mirror!
Thanx man :biggrin:

Testors HIGH GLOSS #1814[/b][/quote]
In a can? I hope so... ;)
 

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Originally posted by jevries+Sep 27 2003, 12:13 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (jevries @ Sep 27 2003, 12:13 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
Originally posted by -The Mad [email protected] 27 2003, 10:54 AM
<!--QuoteBegin--jevries
@Sep 27 2003, 01:30 AM
Hey Mad, what kind of clear do you use man? that looks shiny as a mirror!

Thanx man :biggrin:

Testors HIGH GLOSS #1814
In a can? I hope so... ;)[/b][/quote]
yes sir.... ALL my stuff is done with spray cans ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
looking at the finished product mad ive got a few more questions
1: its glossy already should i insist with the clear or not?
2: i dont know what you guys call it but the finish is very orange peely ie lumpy it looks good just doesnt have that smooth finish i like is that the primer or should i have rubbed it back more is there a way to smooth it?

steady hand ay mate ;) thanks bro
 

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Its not a necessary process, but even if your paint looks awesome after second wetcoat, it will look mile deep after polishing. If you managed to put some dust in your paint while laying down a second wetcoat, wetsand it with very fine (3600) sandpaper. Be extremely cautious if you used metallic paints - metallic colors tend to get lighter in places of sanding, and you do not want this. The rule of thumb when polishing metallic paints, is to apply a coat of clear over the metallic paint, let it dry completely, and then polish the clear coat, not the paint. This adds one more step to the painting process, but believe me, its better than stripping the entire body!

Lightly sand the entire body with 6000 grit, and then smooth out with higher grits (8000, and maybe even 12000, but I rarely use this one!). When sanding is done, rinse the model under the running water and let it dry.

Now about polishes and waxes. I use 3M polishing compound and The Treatment wax "the last detail".


The polishing process is simple enough: get a cotton cloth (old t-shirt work fine), preferably white (this will help you see how much paint you removing), several q-tips, 2-3 toothpicks, and a polishing cloth (same t-shirt). Wrap the cloth over your index finger and dip it into polish. Then start rubbing the surface with circular motion. Try not to rub over fine details and raised edges. Polish works just like fine sandpaper, only in a liquid state. It removes paint and by doing this smoothes the surface, and if you rub over raised edges, it will remove paint just like sandpaper does. When polishing the paint, rub it till all polish is absorbed by the cloth, and then take another (clean) cloth and rub over the polished area to remove remaining polish. You will immediately see if you need to polish this area some more, or if its already polished enough. Do not worry if some of the polish filled the panel lines, you will get rid of it later. Use q-tips dipped in polish to polish hard to reach areas. Work slowly, and check your work often. Repeat the process if needed, and move to another part of the car. I usually start with the hood and continue to the roof, trunk, then to the sides of the car. When you done polishing the entire body, get an old toothbrush, and wash the body under warm running water gently scrubbing panel lines with toothbrush and mild detergent to remove all the polish from the panel lines. Rinse the body and let it dry completely.

When its dry, use the same technique as with the polish to apply wax. Wax is even finer abrasive, and will bring your paint to an amazing shine, you will see your reflection in the paint!

Again, work slowly, and check your work often, because it will be really frustrating if you cut through the paint on this final stage! Of course you'll be able to touch it up, but its better not to. On this stage try not to put a lot of wax into the panel lines, cause you wont be able to wash the body after waxing. Put very little wax on your cloth, and try not to rub over the panel lines with loaded cloth - only when there are almost no wax left on it. After you done waxing the entire body, take a toothpick and carefully remove all the wax from the panel lines. Then give a body one final rub with clean cotton cloth. Try to rub in circular motion again.
 

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Originally posted by lo lo kid@Sep 27 2003, 06:41 PM
i dont know what you guys call it but the finish is very orange peely
orange peel is the exact technical term in automotive finishing.

good guess mate :thumbsup:

that testors #1814 high gloss will take out pretty much all of that after 2 good coats (if its normal orange peel) unless there is actual problems in the paintjob then we might need to go another route.
 

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Originally posted by lo lo kid@Sep 27 2003, 10:14 PM
wasnt sure if u americanos used the term orange peel as us ozzys
OMFG!!! i'm sitting here listening to OZZY as i'm reading this post... how ironic is that? :roflmao:

a good wipedown with a lint free cloth should be good enough depending on how much you have handled the body since painting.

a good rule of thumb (so to speak) is not to touch the body at all until all paint stages are complete.

always go through the roof and/or fenderwells as much as possible. even if the paint is completely dry but you still have to say.... clear like in your case. if you've handled it on the paint the natural oils in your skin can give you problems when you go to respray.

just schoolin ya as much as possible there Dom, hope this is helping you out there mate ;)
 
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