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Redesigning 58-64 Impala rear trailing arm

3.9K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  racerboy  
#1 ·
When I purchased my 62 rag, it was complete with a 4 pump set up and 14" cylinders. Everything worked rather well, however two things became readily apparent:

1) When the car is locked up, the trac-arm causes the diff to get pulled to the front of the drivers side wheel well. So much so that the tire actually touches it. This is caused because the trac arm is a fixed length. As the diff moves through its range of motion, the trac arm cannot adjust for this amount of travel. Thus in turn it pulls the diff forward and to one side. That was an easy fix: Ron @ Black Magic supplied me with a wishbone. After several hours with the plasma cutter and welder, the diff moves straight up and down with the added plus of maintaining correct driveshaft geometry.

2) Now the reason for this post: When you drop a rear corner to three wheel, the bushings on the lower control arm bind and twist. My solution to this is to fabricate new lower control arms, but instead of retaining the bushings at either end, use heim joints (also called ball ends). This would provide a more positive manner in which to locate the rear end, as well as allow for full articulation of the diff. The upside of rubber bushings is that they provide an additional amount cushion, and soften the blow from potholes, bumps, et cetera. The downside of hard mounting the control arms is a more harsh ride. Since I am running hydros, ride quality is not a paramount concern.

Is there anyone else that has encountered the same problems, and had or has the desire to fix it? I went to a well known hydraulic shop and when I inquired about this issue I was told, and I quote "We just deal with it. Nuthin you can do about it. Ya just gotta deal with it."

Oh hell no.

While I am an experienced fabricator, I am not in the mood to re-invent the wheel. Somewhere someone has encountered this problem, thought about it, and solved it. My car is not going to be a hopper, so merely cobbling up some square tubing is not the answer I am after. I am kicking around some ideas as I write this, and if it means sitting down at the drafting table and designing it myself, then so it shall be. However, there are for more knowledgable people out there than myself, and there may be potential issues that have not yet crossed my mind. I do not do this for a living; others do, so it is their advice I seek.

I have to go to Las Vegas on business this week; I will visit Ron and see what he has done to remedy this.
 
#2 ·
ya ron over at black magic carries a wishbone. which removes the need for the rear pan hard bar as well as bannana bar. the top section mounts using the heim joint and the rear of the wish bone attached using a bracket that gets welded to the top of the pumpkin to keep the rear end straight as well as allow for higher locked up
 
#3 ·
Way ahead of you on that one! Got the wishbone welded up several days ago.

I initially thought about running two bananna arms (Actually the Hotchkiss variant), but it was the twisting motion encountered when 3 wheeling that disuaded me from that option. The beauty of the wishbone is that is allows for that, and will not bind because the third mounting point is threaded into its mounting boss, and therefore will rotate when one side of the diff is dropped.
 
#4 ·
ya we did do an extra banana bar on a impala once of the sway and the arm was slighly longer than the other on accident so one side of the car lifted a few inches higher but we reinforced the arms to prevent flexing and was told they worked great as far as the rear end from swaying becuz of the double arms
 
#5 ·
Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS@Dec 26 2007, 03:48 AM~9532822
ya we did do an extra banana bar on a impala once of the sway and the arm was slighly longer than the other on accident so one side of the car lifted a few inches higher but we reinforced the arms to prevent flexing and was told they worked great as far as the rear end from swaying becuz of the double arms
ya ron over at black magic carries a wishbone. which removes the need for the rear pan hard bar as well as bannana bar. the top section mounts using the heim joint and the rear of the wish bone attached using a bracket that gets welded to the top of the pumpkin to keep the rear end straight as well as allow for higher locked up :uh:
 
#6 ·
Originally posted by redline@Dec 26 2007, 09:29 AM~9533960
ya ron over at black magic carries a wishbone. which removes the need for the rear pan hard bar as well as bannana bar. the top section mounts using the heim joint and the rear of the wish bone attached using a bracket that gets welded to the top of the pumpkin to keep the rear end straight as well as allow for higher locked up                                                                                                                            :uh:
He already has a wish bone :uh:
 
#7 ·
hiem the end that goes to the frame on that lower i know what your talkin bout and thats a flaw in the frame, chevy never intended the lower trailin arm to be vertical. rons lower slightly angles the bushing sleeve as oppossed to stock were the sleeves pressed in tru. the stock lower binds like hell and bm lowers not to much thats the way to go unless you wanna try that hiem idea bcuz i think that would work too :cool:
 
#8 ·
Just rolled in from Rons shop... I picked up his lower comtroll arms. They are 1.5" longer than stock. Also, the powerball is angled slightly to improve its orientation.

I asked about the whole heim joint idea I had and he said if there were two heims (One @ each end), the arm would not be stable and would fall to one side or another. Also, the heims are just not as strong as the bushings. A compromise was made, and he installs delrin bushings with a steel sleeve. Much better than stock. I am going to go from 14" cylinders to 12", and that will help out quite a bit.

When I am not so pressed for time, I will try the heim at one end idea kingfish posted. Good idea, thanks!!